The heel flap is knit using two strands of yarn, working one stitch from one strand and the next stitch from the other strand, to create an extra-thick, plush, and durable heel. If you want to create a multicolored effect, you can use a contrasting color for the second strand. Otherwise, the easiest solution is to wind your yarn into a center-pull ball (using a ball winder, nostepinne, or your hands) and use the other end for the second strand. Slipped stitches are slipped as if to purl, with the yarn held to the wrong side of the work.
Stitch Guide (See the attached Leg and Instep chart) Leg Pattern Round 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to the end of the round. Round 2: *K3, p3; repeat from * to the end of the round. Instep Pattern Round 1: (K1, p1) 3 times, (k5, p1) 3 times, (k1, p1) 2 times. Round 2: K1, p3, k21, p3.
Cuff Cast on 54 (60) stitches. Divide stitches evenly onto 3 needles. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches. Round 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to the end of the round. Repeat this round until cuff measures 11⁄2" (4cm).
Leg Work in Leg Pattern on all stitches until the piece measures 6" (15cm) from the cast-on edge, or until desired leg length has been reached. End having worked round 2 of the pattern.
Heel Flap Rearrange the stitches as follows: Place the first 26(32) stitches on needle 1 for the heel, then divide the remaining 28 stitches over needles 2 and 3 and hold them aside to be worked later for the instep. Using the working yarn and the other end of the same skein, work the heel back and forth in rows, alternating the 2 strands of yarn, as follows: Row 1 (RS): Slip 1, (k1 with working yarn, k1 with second strand) 12 (15) times, k1 with the working yarn, turn work. Row 2 (WS): Slip 1, (p1 with working yarn, p1 with second strand) 12 (15) times, p1 with the working yarn, turn. Work rows 1 and 2 until the flap measures 2 (3)" (5[7.5]cm); end having worked a wrong-side row. Cut the second strand of yarn and work the rest of the pattern with the original strand only.
Turn Heel Row 1 (RS): Slip 1, k14 (18), ssk, k1. Turn work. Row 2 (WS): Slip 1, p5 (7), p2tog, p1. Turn. Row 3 (RS): Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before the gap created by the turn on the previous row, ssk to close the gap (1 stitch from each side of the gap), k1. Turn. Row 4 (WS): Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap created by the turn on the previous row, p2tog to close the gap (1 stitch from each side of the gap), p1. Turn. Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked, ending with a wrong-side row—16 (20) heel stitches remain.
Gussets Return to working in the round, as follows: With right side facing, slip 1, knit to the end of the heel needle. Then, using the same needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch in each selvedge stitch along the edge of the heel flap, and 1 stitch between the heel flap and the instep (this is now needle 1). With another needle, work round 1 of the Instep Pattern across the 28 instep stitches (this is now needle 2). With a third needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch between the instep and the heel flap and 1 stitch in each selvedge stitch along the edge of the heel flap, then knit across the first 8 (10) heel stitches (this is now needle 3). You are now ready to begin your instep decreases, which will happen on needles 1 and 3 every other round. Needle 2 will always be worked in the Instep Pattern. Round 1: On needle 1, knit all stitches. On needle 2, work in the Instep Pattern as established. On needle 3, knit to the end of the round. Round 2 (decrease): On needle 1, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. On needle 2, work in pattern as established. On needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 28 (32) stitches remain on the sole (needles 1 and 3)—56 (60) stitches total.
Foot Continue to work in the round, keeping to the established pattern on needle 2 and working in stockinette on needles 1 and 3 until the foot measures 13⁄4 (2)" (4.5 cm) less than desired sock length. (For optimal fit and wear, the desired sock length should be at least 10 percent shorter than the actual foot length.
Toe For larger size only: Toe setup: Slip the last stitch from needle 1 onto the beginning of needle 2. Slip the first stitch from needle 3 onto the end of needle 2—30 stitches on needle 2, 15 stitches each on needles 1 and 3. For all sizes: Round 1 (decrease): On needle 1, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. On needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. On needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. Round 2: Knit all stitches. Repeat these 2 rounds until 20 total stitches remain, ending with round 1. Knit across needle 1 and place those stitches on needle 3, then graft the toe closed with Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends. Repeat the pattern to make a matching pair.