Beginning at the neck edge, with larger needle, loosely cast on 24 (26, 28, 30) sts. Working back and forth on the needle, begin working in pattern as follows: Foundation row: Purl 1 st (front), PM, purl 4 sts (sleeve), PM, purl 14 (16, 18, 20) sts (back), PM, purl 4 sts (sleeve), PM, purl 1 st (front). Row 1: Knit, increasing in the stitch before and after each marker by knitting into the front and the back of the stitch. (8 increases made). Row 2: Purl, increasing in the first and last sts only. Row 3: Repeat row 1. Row 4: Purl even. Repeat the last 4 rows until there are at least 10 (10, 12, 12) sts in each beginning and ending section after a purl row. Repeat row 1 again, and cast on 6 (8, 8, 10) sts at the end of the row. JOIN, being careful not to twist the stitches. Working in the round, knit 1 round even. Increase in the stitch before and after every marker as before on the next and every following alternate round until there are 204 (216, 228, 240) sts on the needle. There should be 21 (22, 23, 24) sets of raglan increases. End at the marker at the beginning of the left sleeve. Next row: Knit the left sleeve stitches, and place them on a stitch holder. Cast on 1 st, and continue knitting across the back, knit the right sleeve stitches, and place them on a stitch holder, cast on 1 st and continue knitting across the front stitches: 114 (122, 130, 138) sts. Working on the body only, work even in st st until total length from neck is 19 (19, 20, 21)”, decreasing 8 (8, 10, 10) sts across the last round, Bind off loosely.
Sleeves: Place left sleeve stitches on the larger needle. Reattach yarn, and working back and forth on the needle, work in st st, beginning with a knit row. Cast on 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the first row: 48 (50, 52, 54) sts. Work 1” even in st st. Continue in st st, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every 4th row until 32 sts remain. Continue working even until total sleeve length is 15 (15, 16, 16)” ending with a WS row. Bind off loosely. Repeat for right sleeve.
Finishing: Sew up sleeve seams and underarm seam. Cabled Borders: Working on smaller needles, cast on 12 stitches, work in 8 row cable pattern as follows: CB4: Place next 2 sts on a cable needle and hold in the back of the work. Knit the next 2 sts, then knit the 2 sts from the cable needle. CF4: Place next 2 sts on a cable needle and hold in the front of the work. Knit the next 2 sts, then knit the 2 sts from the cable needle. Row 1: K2, p1, k6, p1, k2. Row 2: P2, k1, p6, k1, p1, k1. Row 3: K2, p1, CB4, k2, p1, k2. Row 4: P2, k1, p6, k1, p1, k1. Row 5: K2, p1, k6, p1, k2. Row 6: P2, k1, p6, k1, p1, k1. Row 7: K2, p1, k2, CF4, p1, k2. Row 8: P2, k1, p6, k1, p1, k1. Repeat 8 rows for cable pattern. Make these borders to fit around cuffs, collar and bottom of sweater. Sew in place.