Crochet Coasters

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These crochet coasters can be made of either cotton or cotton/hemp blend. Acrylic yarn does not absorb liquid, so is less useful for coasters. The crochet will be worked at a tighter gauge, to provide a stiff, solid fabric, capable of protecting furniture. Each coaster is made from two layers of crochet fabric joined together with crocheted edging.

What You’ll Need for 4 Coasters:
- Light worsted (#4) cotton or cotton/hemp blend yarn, about 100 yds (92 m) each, in 3 colors
- Shown: Plymouth Yarns “Grass” (65% Cotton, 35% Hemp; 50g/115 yds) , 9086 Red (A), 9072 Aqua (B), 9089 Multi (C).
- Size G (4.25 mm) or size needed to match gauge
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers (optional)
Finished Size:
- Approximately 4½" wide by 4" tall (11.5 × 10 cm)
- 15 stitches = 3½" (9 cm), 14 rows = 3¼" (8.5 cm). Exact gauge is not necessary for this project

Stitches and Abbreviations Used:
- chain = ch
- single crochet = sc
- slip stitch = sl st
- stitch(es) = st(s)

Source: Crochet 101: Master Basic Skills and Techniques...

Step 1

Note: Stitch counts are listed in {brackets} at the end of row instructions. For each coaster make one square with A and one with B.
Foundation: Ch 16.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. {15 sc}
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. {15 sc}
Rows 3–14: Repeat Row 2.
At end of Row 14, measure the row gauge. Flatten your piece and measure to see whether it’s larger or smaller than the stated 3." (8.5 cm) tall. If the difference is more than ." (6 mm), you may want to work an extra row, pull out a row, or accept that your coaster is unique and slightly different from the designer’s. As long as all your squares match each other, and are an appropriate size for the coaster’s function, it’s fine. Remember, the edging yet to be worked will add to the dimension of the squares. If you change the number of rows, the number of stitches you work in each round of the edging will change. In that case don’t be alarmed when your stitch count for the edging doesn’t match the given count! When satisfied with the size and shape of the square, fasten off, leaving a tail to weave in. Weave in beginning and ending tails.

Step 2

Make a slip knot with C and place it on the hook. Attach to the work thus: hold the two completed squares together with Row 14 of each square at the top, so the sideways Vs at the tops of the stitches have their “points” facing to the left. Insert the hook through both squares at the center of Row 14. The hook will go under the front and back loop of one A stitch and one B stitch.
Work a sc stitch by catching the working (C) yarn at the back and drawing up a loop, then completing the stitch as usual. In patterns, this step is described as, “Attach yarn C with a sc at center of row 14 of both squares, working through both thicknesses.”

Step 3

Round 1:
Work 1 sc through both thicknesses of each stitch until the corner of the piece. In corner stitch (last stitch of row 14), work 2 more sc in the same space. (Total of 3 sc in corner st. This “increase” allows the work to progress around the corner of the square.)
Now working down the side of the squares, continue to insert the hook through both thicknesses, working 1 sc in each row end, (from Row 14 to Row 1) to the next corner. Always insert the hook so that at least two strands of the row end are above the hook, to avoid stretching out the stitches. Some crocheters prefer to insert the hook under the entire end stitch of the row; some prefer to insert the hook into the side of the end stitch with two strands above the hook. It’s a matter of personal preference, so try it both ways for a few
stitches to see which appearance you like best. Then remove the stitches in the “other” method, and continue with the chosen method. The photograph shows insertion into the center of the row end stitches.
At next corner, work a corner increase (3 sc in same stitch). Now work along the bottom edge, inserting the hook under the remaining, unworked loop or loops of the foundation chain, through both thicknesses, matching stitches of the two squares. Work 1 sc in each ch across to corner. Work a corner increase, in last unworked loops, then work along the row ends of Rows 1–14, as before, to final corner. Work final corner increase in the end of Row 14, then 1 sc through both thicknesses in each st to beginning of Round 1. Join the last stitch made to the first with a sl st, thus:
Insert hook under both loops of first sc, yo and pull loop through BOTH the work AND the loop on the hook, slip stitch completed.
Chain 1. Turn. {Round 1 = 62 sc, not counting slip stitch or chain}
Round 2:
*Sc in each sc to corner, 3 sc in center st of corner; repeat from * 3 more times, sc in each remaining st of final side; join with a sl st. Fasten off.

Step 4

Weave in yarn tails, leaving final end in the space between the two joined squares. When all four coasters are complete, steam block them.

Step 5

Steam Blocking To Finish a Project:
Steam blocking is a method recommended for yarns made primarily from plant fibers or synthetics, but not for wool, silk, or alpaca. Blocking methods for those fibers will be discussed later. In general, blocking is any means used to help all the stitches relax into one another, to even the tension of all the stitches, and to make the finished fabric lie flat at its correct dimensions. To block your coasters with steam, cover an ironing board or other flat surface with a terry cloth towel. Lay the coasters on the towel and use fingers to shape them into nice squares. Pin in place if they seem prone to shifting, but pinning is optional. Lay a dampened towel over the coasters. Set the iron to its highest dry temperature setting. The moisture in the top towel will provide a more even steaming than the steam jet of the iron could. Set the hot iron gently down on the dampened upper towel. Hold in place till steam stops rising, move to the next section of towel and repeat. Pressure is not necessary, as the weight of the iron will be sufficient. Merely hold the iron in place, allowing steam to work through the towel to the coasters. When all coasters have been steamed, turn off the iron and remove the top towel. Allow the coasters to cool and dry in place. Pins can be removed and coasters are ready to use when they are cool and dry to the touch.
The two towels are important for two reasons: they protect the texture of the crocheted fabric from becoming too flattened; and they protect the yarn from scorching in the iron’s heat. Never touch a hot iron directly to crocheted fabric, regardless of fiber content!

Step 6

Adapted from "Crochet 101: Master Basic Skills and Techniques Easily through Step-by-Step Instruction" by Deborah Burger and published by Creative Publishing international. Images by Eleanor Dotson Carlisle.
Deb will be an expert for CraftFoxes from Monday November 5th through Friday November 9th. If you have any questions for her about learning how to crochet, be sure to include them in the comments below.

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